Love Island Travel

Bandung, with its outlet stores and bakeries selling the ubiquitous brownie, this city has long been a favorite destination for Jakarta people looking for a cooler shopping experience. Now, of course, with the advent of budget airlines, there is no Indonesians flock to splash money. The people of Malaysia and Singapore are discovering that makes for a refreshing weekend.

There was a Bandung that dates back centuries. But the Bandung which hosted the Africa Conference Asia, the city that attracts visitors and locals alike, is for all purposes a Dutch creation. It was the Dutch who insisted the original village to move a few miles, it is the Dutch who brought the railroad and it was the Dutch who made Bandung a must on the nascent world tour with their gardens and Art Deco architecture in the early 20th century.

So it was a bit of a surprise that the Indonesians, in their early days as a sovereign state, the city must choose to highlight the rise of the new breed of cut countries outside the empire.

Asia Africa Conference 1955 held in the city of West Javan, was supposed to show the way forward for the new nation states who came to get rid of their unwanted overlords and their paternalism. The final communiqué has mapped the way forward and offered a better future lessons learned the hard way.

If Bandung can be said to have a center, then it probably is where the Grand Preanger Hotel is now located on Jl. Asia Afrika. This is the original Groote Post Weg. A few steps from the Preanger is 0 KM marker that marks the beginning of the road that was to reach the length of Java.

Cross the road and enter the Art Deco Savoy Homann Hotel. Back in Bandung the 1920s was known as the Paris of the East for its leafy boulevards and trendy cafes that lined Jalan Braga. When the beautiful people have come to stay, they stayed in the Savoy Homann, among them Charlie Chaplin. The rounded edges smooth outer lead of the hotel some call this style 'Ocean liner' Amsterdam Art Deco.

Today, cross the road after about 9 hours is not for the feint heart, but back in the heyday of Bandung guests of the Savoy Homann would cross socialize in society Concordia. Planters and officials who have called home Bandung to discuss at the bar while the ladies and their brother were flirting in the large ballroom making Concordia the place to be.

a generation, a war and later independence was the likes of Sukarno, Jawarhal Neru, Nassar and Zhou En-Lai who gathered for the 1955 Conference which gave the road its name. One wonders what the leaders of the new and ostensibly unaligned nations thought the showy environment where they have developed their final communiqué.

Today, this proud building stands in silent tribute to another era. Its curved walls have seen much change over the years, but for now, named Gedung Merdeka, he is humble museum detailing the events and characters of that 1955 conference, momentarily, the world's eyes were on Bandung.

is just a short walk west of alum alum (public square found in traditional Javanese cities like Cirebon, Yogyakarta and Solo). After the colonial styles earlier, we fall headlong into something truly native but essential. For it is here that the Bandung chief at the time, RAWiranatakusumah, relocated its seat of government under the "guidance" of the governor general of the early 19th century, Herman Daendals.

On the north side is the Grand Post Office, a return to the early days of the Groote Postweg then a road heading north, Jl. Banceuy also hint at a historic postal connection. Banceuy is a Sundanese word for post horses and they were probably stabled nearby but you stand to watch the traffic you are wondering how a four-legged animal would last five minutes, let alone a horse.

Take the next turn right along Jl. Otto Iskander and enter Pasar Baru. A panther made the mistake of coming here in 1920 only to be shot for his troubles. This road and the side streets leading off, it has some interesting old buildings that survive in the modern era. Before the Dutch started coming here in numbers there was little in the way of a Chinese population, but that changed during the 19th century, large profits were made in the nearby hills and the railway arrived in 1884 promised to deliver products in Jakarta in about three hours.

cities Even in these days off, the divided tracks. South of the railway was where people have played; cafes and bakeries on Jl. Braga, the Concordia, the Savoy. North, the road rose gently, was the place where people lived, defended and ran the growing city and its surroundings. Just by the Hyatt today speak some impressive white washed buildings. After the chaos of Jl. Asia Afrika it is refreshing to walk on the wide quiet roads around military barracks now used by Indonesian forces.

Today's visitor does not come for old buildings and history that arouses the streets of Bandung, but its factory outlets. Every weekend of the new toll road in Jakarta is clogged that families fill the car and head south to cooler climates and cheaper prices. Jl. Martadinata, popularly known as Jl. Riau is a mecca for those buyers eyeing a bargain.

At the corner of Jl. Riau, you may notice in this area, the streets are named after the remote islands of the archipelago, and Jl. Banda is an outlet store . No surprise there. But this particular shop is in a big old house dating back about 100 years. In another time, it was home to a planter, a pioneer who made mint in Parahyangan lush mountains that surround this cool city.

Perhaps, after a busy day audit the accounts, he mounted his horse and head back the way we come through the cantonments across the railway line down Jl. Braga in Concordia for some cold refreshments.

This house of one level with its columns surrounding the front door seems uncomfortable with his current incarnation. The cars that fill her car seem almost insulting this lady, but the empire is gone. It is not for visitors to decide what should happen to the heritage of the city.

Bandung icon is the Gedung Sate Dutch but it was built and what the Dutch building have made a statement. They wanted to move their capital Jakarta, then known as Batavia, Bandung and they wanted to govern their empire far thrown Gerber designed this building.

With a nod to the local influences of the central tower was crowned by three traditional levels and roof above was a single stick sate; small skewers pieces of meat and ready to eat.

The time has dictated the Dutch were not to exclude Bandung. 25 years after Gedung Sate was built Indonesians were proclaiming independence. A planned avenue leading to the mystical Tangkuban Perahu was finally built by people who perhaps understood the sacred bond between the rulers and the spirit of the mountain that dominates the skyline to the north.

Our journey through Bandung took us through time and up to modern times. Daendals forced relocation of the original village, we saw where the elite has played and stayed, but we end up watching a mountain that has inspired generations of young Indonesians.

This is perhaps the respectful memory of colonialism. It is ephemeral, it can never last because while the body of a people may be subjugated, soul can never be if they do not allow.

Wali Songo are revered throughout Indonesia that wise men who brought Islam to Java first, but ultimately across the islands. Wali, now used for a civic leader as in Wali Kota or mayor, Songo means nine. History likes to play tricks with us and all their legacy is clear who they were and even how many there were less clear. They rose to prominence along the north coast of Java as the Majapahit empire, mostly Hindu, was fading.

Sunan Gunung Jati
In addition to being active in the early Muslim entities such as Banten and Demak, Gunungjati is credited as the founder of Cirebon, another town port on the north coast of Java, about four hours from Jakarta by train. Some stories have him from the Bogor region, other Aceh. Some sources also call Fatihillah who fought the Portuguese in the early 16th century. His tomb is located north of Cirebon beside the grave of his first wife who was Chinese.

Sunan Kudus
Kudus in Central Java is just east of Semarang. The city was founded by Sunan Kudus who also built a mosque called Al-Aqsa Masjid here after that of Jerusalem with the rumor, the doors of a Majapahit palace. Her grave is behind the mosque and every year on 10 Muharram in the Islamic calendar curtains around the resting place are changed. The date is interesting because it is a holy day in the Shiite calendar when they recall the martyrdom of Hussain and perhaps Persian traders in a distant heritage days.

Sunan Giri
This chapter is regarded as the son of a Hindu princess Balambangan and missionary Melakan. He studied in Melaka and is credited with spreading Islam in Sulawesi, Lombok, and Maluku. He also studied under Sunan Ampel and married his daughter. He remained in East Java and started schools in Gresik, just north of Surabaya.

Sunan Kalijaga
Just north of Kudus near the coast is the town of Demak. He was Demak which finally overthrew Majapahit and has become the leading power in the region, rivaling Banten. Masjid Agung here is reckoned to be the oldest mosque in Java, built in 1466. Legend has it the mosque was built in one night by the Wali Songo and one of the pillars was made by Sunan Kalijaga using tips wood welded together. Many early Demak leaders are buried by the mosque while Kalijaga was buried a few miles in Kadilangu.

Sunan Ampel
He was born in Champa somewhere in South Vietnam but has found its way to Surabaya. It is believed to have been the leader of the Wali Songo and its mosque, Masjid Ampel, is considered one of the largest in Surabaya. Two other Wali Songo were Bonang and Drajad who were his son, as we have seen, it was near Sunan Giri. He was royally well connected with family ties to both Majapahit and the Sultan of Demak.

Sunan Muria
Thought to be a son of Sunan Kalijaga, Muria is considered friendly to Javanese culture and used traditional methods like gamelan and wayang in his teachings , which uses the lower levels of Javanese society where he spent much of his time.

Maulana Malik Ibrahim
the first of the Wali Songo, its origins are unclear. He died in 1419 in Gresik and his tombstone was shipped from Gujarat where he had been finely carved in white marble.

Old Dhaka is a hodgepodge of narrow lanes, crumbling houses are home to a myriad of craftsmen and a history that dates back over 400 years. There are no accurate maps of the area, there are very few signs of the road and almost nobody speaks English. But wandering the historic streets will bring you up close and personal in Bangladesh and Bangladeshis.

Bangladesh is of course a waterfront lot, so it's just that the river should dominate the capital. The Buriganga is a business lifeline, a transportation hub and a floating market all mixed into one fascinating aquatic package.

old Dhaka city extends about an inner mile teeming shores and has changed little over the centuries from when Arakan and European traders pirates were attracted to the wealth of this outpost is the Mughal Empire. Indeed, if these pirates and traders back today they would find little has changed along the riverbank. More people, yes, but most buildings and industries would still be recognizable.

Sadarghat is at the heart of the region. It is three floors of ferries here are overnight trips south of the towns and villages still without a direct route from their capital. Among the passenger ferries colossus seeking an incredible variety of small vessels serving the needs of local businesses and users.

Flat bed ferries regularly Buriganga, stunted by passenger ferries much, transportation of a handful of people to the opposite shore, their force all boaters tendons, sweating under the hot sun sweat stain their turbans and sarongs.

Produce is still being unloaded with carriers carrying onions and potatoes, vitals in the local diet, their heads up the gentle slope to the nearby market along Ahsanullah road. The road, like everything in this area is narrow and motorized vehicles can not reach. Instead, the goods are loaded onto wooden carts which are then drawn out to their destinations across the city.

The Ahsan Manzil or Pink Palace is close to Sadarghat overlooking the bustling waterway. Built by a wealthy Kashmiri businessman who made his Dhaka home, this impressive house with its staircase dominating now houses an interesting museum detailing a Dhaka now long forgotten and peaceful gardens provide a much needed respite from the hubbub of the streets.

cosmopolitan past lives in Dhaka or Hindu Shankharia Bazar Street. Here, the narrow streets narrow and decrepit buildings with their faded charm get more. There is barely enough room for one to pass rickshaw workers busy carting their goods.

Each burst narrow Shopfront with economic activity, whether conch shell bangle makers, Hindu artifacts or incredibly small coffee shops with tiny stools that grow only 12 inches from the ground. Some shops are brightly lit; others offer a wall mounted some candles recalling a bygone era, but in fact there is a practical aspect to the wax. Dhaka's growing population places a high demand on its infrastructure and energy reductions are a regular event.

The space is at a premium low Hindu Street, as light as large buildings ensure long shadows for most of the day. The incessant ringing of bells in the darkness by rickshaw riders looking forward to a little soothing and hypnotic even both.

Some of the first settlers of the East were the Armenians and their legacy endures even to this day in downtown Dhaka with Armanitola appointed district. Never particularly numerous, even at their peak during the height of the British Raj them small community now has nine families who still regularly attend services of the Armenian Church on Armanitola Road, as they have done since it opened in 1781.

the church is usually locked, but there is a guard and friendly locals usually call if people want to have a look around. It will be open to the church, which is a narrow chapel with wooden seats and a high vaulted ceiling.

Dhaka is all about people. Whether schoolchildren rickshaw or women breaking bricks on the side of the street cage, sea urchins playing barefoot in the debris thrown from a failed or exhausted construction site, sweat-stained cart pullers advantage time of scarce stop munching a biscuit, the old city of Dhaka gives you a snapshot of how life is for most Bangladeshis in their capital city

Logistics -. the best way to see the old town is to go with a guide. Many people do not know the places you can visit, even if they could understand English

Move -. The only way is by rickshaw. The streets and alleys are too narrow for any type of motorized transport

Getting to Bangladesh -. Regular flights to Dhaka from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok

Visas -. Varies according to nationality. The best thing is to contact your embassy of Bangladesh nearest

Places to stay -. A good choice is Pacific Hotel in Motijheel, the main commercial area (www.pacifichoteldhaka.com) but the area is very quiet at night. Al-Razzaque International is more central to the old town and on a busy street, the north-south road. But busy does not mean busy! Sheraton and Pan Pacific Hotels can also be found a little further north

Where to eat -. The Motijheel area is home to a growing number of small deli type places that offer reasonably priced western food in clean environments. Helvettia is an example right next to the Hotel Pacific. Al-Razzaque International has a large dining room downstairs, which is popular with locals and tourists

General information -. The best resource for information is a Bangladeshi brothers couple called Mahmud and Mahfuz. They can help organize hotels, the airport pick-ups as well as guiding people around Dhaka, and of course the Old Town. They were mentioned in the latest Lonely Planet guide to Bangladesh and are highly recommended.

as an American Indian now living in Indonesia, I was surprised to read recent article Mr. Rooseboom comparing colonial experiences of Indonesia and India and showing the British in a better light than the Dutch. Indonesian Unfortunately, in my time here, I have often heard lament that it would have been better if they had not been colonized by the Dutch, even to hear that from the mouth of former President BJ Indonesia, Habibie at a recent conference. The reality, of course, is much more complex, and here, I hope to provide a different angle than Mr. Rooseboom.

India and Indonesia have been, by the people, the two greatest colonial possessions in the world in the 18th and 19th century, and both were highly desired by European powers. After failing in their quest to colonize and exploit the precious resources of the East Indies, the British East India Company decided to try his luck further west, India. While the Dutch may use repressive tactics to subjugate local populations - the invasion of Bali and the murder of the royal family is an example - the British were much more sinister, using a policy of divide and rule, which the effects are still felt today

both countries were heavily exploited for their resources -. with almost all the profits go to Europe. The British, however, took a step further, turning vast areas of agricultural land formally self-sufficient in Bengal in vast opium planting, fixing monopsony famine prices for poppies, turning the precious opium, and shipping project for East Asia and the benefits in England. In China, opium addict million and hastened the ruin of the once magnificent economy that countries in a European client state. Is it really surprising that even today China is taking Western advice with healthy skepticism? Or that the Indian farmer is still fighting today to overcome the burdens of the past?

M .. Rooseboom points to the infrastructure of the left in Colombia, including the railways, and few educational efforts, it must be said, never included women or members of lower castes. What must be realized is that India, like Indonesia, had an Aboriginal education system which was devastated by the colonial policies. After independence, India had a similar rate of literacy than that of Indonesia, perhaps the most symbolic peoples highly educated. Today, the literacy rate in Indonesia is higher than India. And trains? They were built to exploit the resources first and exercise second British control, not empower Indians who had no say in their construction or use.

The Dutch inflicted similar damage economically, but nothing can compare Indonesia with British rational division of social policy. In an effort to manage the people, the British drew the borders drawn by religion. The 105 partition of Bengal divided Bengali Hindus and Bengali Muslims, who speak the same language, wear the same dress, and are not as clearly divided (large minorities lived in peace in a mixed environment). Later, Punjabi Punjabi Sikhs and Muslims were divided between Pakistan and India, a score that was imposed on the population and led to millions of deaths.

Can you imagine if the Dutch had done the same thing here? Creation of a separate state for Muslims and Javanese Javanese Christians? European ideas of race, religion and ethnicity were not consistent with pluralistic societies like India and Indonesia. Nor does the system of nation-state, but that's another story.

Indonesia should give thanks that the Dutch do not divide society so well. India is recovering, but the Pakistan border remains tense, and even today, Hindus fleeing Bangladesh, whose population Hindu minority has decreased by 25% after independence only 10% today. I am often amazed at how easily Indonesians from different religious backgrounds and ethnic mix. In India, which is too rare, except in cases of interest, as the hometown of my mother from Hyderabad, who rarely sees ommunal violence. Hyderabad was also never under direct British control, so never went through the same types of destructive policies that divide much of the rest of South Asia.

The truth is that there is no such thing as good and bad Colonialism Colonialism. Pre-colonial India and Indonesia had vast empires, incredible accomplishments in the arts, literature and culture. Malay Archipelago sailors connected through complex networks of trade, while the spices flowed from the Malabar Coast of southern India in the world. The British and Dutch stunted growth in both countries, and subjected them to horrible, destabilizing the operation. The wealth we see today in the old buildings decorated with Amsterdam and London is directly connected with poverty still visible in Jakarta and New Delhi.

Comparing the Dutch and British in India and Indonesia are similar to try to judge different shades of injustice. The truth is, there is just an injustice when people exercise control over the other and exploit them for gain, no matter how altruistic rhetoric. In time, I believe that India and Indonesia will be able to recover damages caused by Europe, but it will be a long and difficult process, and we should always remember that it does not have to be that way.

Cannibalism has long been linked with the islands that now make up Indonesia. The ancient Greek historian Herodotus proto identified a tribe who eat their own family members rather than allowing them to age.

" Another tribe of Indians called Padaei who live east of the Indians marshes are nomads and eat raw meat. They are said to have the following customs . If any of their compatriots - man or woman - is ill, his closest male friends (assuming there is a man who is ill) kill it on the grounds that he was dying in the illness of his flesh will become spoiled. He denies he is ill, but they take no notice, kill and have a party. Exactly the same procedure is followed by the closest friends of a woman when she is a woman who is ill. they sacrifice and eat anyone who reaches old age, but it is unusual for anyone to do, because they kill everyone who falls ill before reaching old age . "

early researchers such as John Leyden Stamford Raffles and the Padaei supposed to be done or Batay Batta (or Batak) based on their interpretation of Pali, "the letter b p is almost always pronounced" Leyden said.

But they were not alone in assuming the cannibal spirit located in the eastern islands. When the Portuguese arrived in the Straits of Melaka in the early 16th century, their taking notes D'Alberquerque resident noticed how some of the ruling families in many states of the city on either side of the strategic part of the water, cannibals used as executioners were criminals "roasted" or "gruel" to eat. The Portuguese noted that many cannibals came from a "country called Aru (Sumatra), from which the King bought them food criminals.

A hundred years later, Edmund Scott had been filed in Banten (Banten Lama today but at the time the largest trading port in the region), and as he did not have enough problems coping with colleagues drink, fight and die, he had hunters local heads giving him sleepless nights "There were a few Javan women who cut the head of their husband during the night," he said, adding. "They dwell much on our house, "and was convinced that they would become victims had they not kept their guard.

You can almost feel the terror in his words as he wrote his candle light night after newspaper night, exhausted from negotiations and infighting that took hours of the day. the sinister jungle encircling him, and having no idea if a return ship would never take "what the stinking stew" as a beginning entrepreneur described he would end his days as so many others had.

Batak still appear as formidable cannibals in the writings of Dr. Felix Maynard and Alexandre Dumas in their work, the Whalers. They describe how being eaten alive was a way to justice those guilty of adultery, theft overnight or people who attack someone in their home.

In the case of adultery, the injured party has got to keep the offender's ears as the chief justice got to keep his head to himself. Interestingly, the party was not followed by the men as the authors noted, "Women use thousand subterfuges and employ all their enticements to" have a seat at the table with the men folk. Apparently soles cooked with rice and salt to make a "delicious dish" the most.

They also suggested the Batak used to eat their parents when they had outlived their usefulness. Apparently, when cédrats ripened old, they "should be seen voluntarily submit to death" as he died, the members of the remaining family hoot with songs of joy.

When the fruit is mature
must must fall

family finish their elderly parent before cutting the body, adding sambal and curry and enjoy the party.

course, how much truth there is in some of the most fantastic memories is questionable. Missionaries used to be very active in remote areas of the archipelago and adapted their story exposing the dangers they face, deal with these savages. Undoubtedly, they found wallets peoples would open much more quickly when they were faced with the unbridled savagery demanding to be rescued by the charismatic, heroic man of the cloth.

Even today there are rumored to be tribes living in the most remote areas of Papua who are not averse to the odd bit of human flesh. One such group is the Karowai. Thought to number about 4,000, and equally famous for living in complex tree houses, the Karowai have been "discovered" by the outside world in the late 1970s with little in the way of defenses Natural against diseases that can infest a tropical house, the Karowai came with their own way to explain the illness or death. All they can not explain is down to khakhua or witches.

The Smithsonian Magazine sent an intrepid reporter in the jungles of Papua to meet Karowai. It was explained that the khakhua would disguise himself as a friend or relative of the person they wanted to kill, and then began to eat the entrails of the victim while they slept, considerately replaced by fire ash so as not to disrupt the victim. Before the victim is breathing its last they tell her parents the name of khakhua, effectively signing his death warrant.

One of Karowai described what happened in one case. A cousin of his was dying and told them who was khakhua. They caught the "witch" and fired arrows in his body before cutting his head. They then cut the body up, carefully wrap the meat in banana leaves before putting them to other community members to eat.

This is the "witch" was one of their friends, but it n 't matter, saying it was a "justice system."

Of course, Korowai do not see themselves as man eaters "We do not eat humans," one said. "We only eat khakhua".

Enjoy!

Rio Sidik is the most famous jazz and fusion musician and singer from Indonesia, also well known on the international music scene. He played in a few big halls and was the star attraction, too. jazz club Ronnie Scott Fullon as London to international jazz festivals throughout Europe, Russia and Southeast Asia -. He will be there again for the third time this year

Rio goes to these international meetings on his own, but he and his Quartet distinguished played in the biggest sites in the region, Singapore, Malaysia and many course Indonesia. As Jakarta or Bali, Ubud or Java Jazz Festivals, it is at home on a stage with a trumpet in his hand with his exceptional eclectic fusion band supporting him all the way.

To hear his distinctive sound, a mixture of soulful singing interspersed with performances virtuoso solo trumpet, come see live in different places around Bali. He has several albums of his own material published, some under Saharadja, some too with his Quartet. His signature song is a special interpretation of Santana "Make Somebody Happy" has the distinctive chorus line "People need people need people. Make someone happy... It'll make you stronger!"

He started playing the trumpet at age six and had his first concert alongside his grandfather, Dariono, a great big group of trumpeter and teacher, and his brothers and sisters players at the age of 11. He moved at the age of 19. Bali last year, this grandmaster came to Bali to see him play and gave him his biggest compliment. "He said he was really proud to hear me play he taught thousand young people. He was always strict, never said anything like this meant the world to me.".

This helps explain why Rio belts, to "make someone happy ... it will make you stronger!"

John Bunnell, a resident of Bali for nine years, was ravaged by war in Syria as a logistician for two and a half months working in a Doctors Without Borders hospital infiltration field (Doctors Without Borders). Here, he shares his experiences of the first line.

Our field hospitals in Syria were "infiltration". First, we ran a hospital in a cave, then he was moved to a farm operation not a better place and we could adapt it to reduce the risk of shell or mortar shrapnel. When I arrived, the field hospital was already operational, although a rough manner. There were still things that needed improvement and a constant threat throughout the hospital could be moved to another location within a short time. The look of the inside hospital is quite normal, but it was obvious it had to be made operational quickly. The same old inflatable operating theater of the cave was used for sanitary and privacy issues. It also has emergency rooms, inpatient and outpatient, a busy maternity service, which we expanded and even a component of mental health.

Helicopter drums and bombings were quite continues in the "free" area in which we were working. That said, the hospital has never been targeted, but you could hear the explosions at any time of day or night; some being worse than others. MSF has been very adamant that every future field agent to the project completely understood the situation they were getting into. It was a mission in a war context in its purest form. We had war wounded coming in quite regularly, and some big massive losses just before I arrived. That was our main goal to be prepared for.

I went as LAF (Log / Administration / End). I find the administrative part of the job to be cumbersome for the rest of my work. There were major changes in human resources (HR) had to be done that required a lot of attention. The decision was made to hire an HR expert to give me some relief; making it possible for me to focus on the pure logistics. Before the war, Syria was a developed country, and many of our national staff were trained to some degree. I was fortunate to have the help of an excellent national staff in my department towards the end of my mission.

The actual compound of the hospital is not very big, so it was easy to move. We also had two rental houses in the valley, an outpatient clinic, three mobile clinics and a first aid station that the necessary attention. My duties have led all aspects of the logistics of MSF regular, but was told to focus on communication as a priority when I arrived. Communication was very difficult and too much time was spent in pursuit of it. I think it was well treated while I was there.

Food, surprisingly enough, has worked quite well, relatively speaking. We could get very simple things of the community nails, cement, gravel, drums, and basic food products. The majority of medicines and other medical supplies were legitimately brought by legal border crossings; other more normal articles were regularly moved through the border to a variety of content using a variety of means. All the lots required good contacts and networks to ensure that we received the medicines and supplies quickly to the medical team to do their job. All these movements, including the passage of the staff were among the most amazing I've seen in my life. The movements and passages modified by day and sometimes by the minute. I am amazed at how our staff removed these situations on a regular basis!

In Syria, security was also on the top of the priority list. We had some unfortunate incidents where people came with weapons. No one was injured, but it is disturbing to say the least. This made us quickly look at how it should be corrected immediately. It is a basic rule of thumb for MSF projects around the world that we will treat anyone who needs medical assistance, including soldiers or rebels, but all weapons must be left outside the center MSF.

In the context of war, there were inevitable incidents that could compromise the safety of our staff and patients. Physical changes were made to the hospital at the end of my mission to help address these important issues. I am mainly involved in the practical side of security -Training watchmen, do physical systems from input to screen people who come to the hospital and into a weapons-free zone. We set up entrance where staff and patients alike are examined before they enter the vicinity of the hospital. There are "layers of barriers" or various stops before getting inside it is a mass for the victim, for the registration of patients and for staff.

daily safety meetings were a key part of our day. The field coordinator and I, as well as medical and focal point security adviser, held daily meetings in the morning followed by another that involved the whole team. On ordinary days, we met twice a day. On bad days we had a lot more! I've never experienced such complete security meetings in any other mission.

The safety meetings are not just for the safety of personnel, but also to prepare for what will happen next when we expect an influx of patients, what kind of injuries we wait, that might work and management of cases of patients, what is necessary, we have enough supplies, are there going to be massive losses or just a handful of people injured.

It was a very difficult task because we were in a war. Although she was one of my best mission ever, it was a very sad and horrible situation for Syria. I would go back if I was asked, however.