Being multicultural country it is, there are many ways to celebrate Christmas in Indonesia. Even time is a starting white winters of the northern hemisphere.
And customs pose surprises. They'll gala dinners in posh hotels in charity runs in slums, of unknown songs in exotic languages bands Megachurch Hillsong style, from midnight wayang Nativity shows the Melanesian pig feasts in earthen ovens .
This holiday season, I decided to visit a destination Christmas improbable. Palace of the 15th Islamic century seems Hindu but has Christian icons that decorate the throne room. Kraton Kasepuhan Cirebon
A statement of multiculturalism
At the palace, I was greeted by Mas Iman, a dalem of abdi (royal servant promised) that has been in service for 25 years. No, you will not find Christmas trees or Santa's elves here. However, I thought that the very history of Cirebon reflects the Christmas message of peace.
The Sultanate of Cirebon was established in 1445 as Prince Chakrabuana ascended the throne. Before that, the city was known as "Gunung Jati" and part of Pajajaran, a Hindu kingdom based in Bogor today.
Being a coastal city north, Cirebon developed in the fishing regulations. Cai Rebon literally means "water shrimp" in Sundanese, a reference to fish juice from the production of terasi, fermented shrimp paste that flavors nasi goreng and other Indonesian dishes
. "Cirebon" is also a caruban of corruption, which means "mixed" in Sundanese. this refers to the mixed heritage of the city, being on the border of Sundanese and Javanese territory. Today Cirebonites speak a distinct dialect of Javanese strongly influenced by Sundanese
Being a great international port, many foreigners also came here to negotiate or settle: .. Champa, Chinese, Indian, Arabic, European
leader most famous Sultanate is the nephew of Syarif Hidayatullah Chakrabuana, who ruled from 1479 to1568. He is later canonized as Sunan Gunung Jati, a "Wali Songo" or nine officials saints spread Islam in Java.
Born to an Egyptian father and sister Hashemite Chakrabuana Nyai Rara Santang, Hidayatullah traces its ancestry to both the prophet Muhammad and Sundanese Hindu god-kings. Hidayatullah married several women, including Chinese Princess Ong Tien Nio, who practiced Chinese religion. He also promoted the friendship with the European Christian merchants.
Harmony in architecture
Chakrabuana lost his right to Pajajaran Hindu throne because of his conversion to Islam, and the subsequent assignment to spread the faith in west Java. "Cirebon was established at the end of the Hindu era, and the dawn of Islamic kingdoms," said Mas Iman.
The Gapura claw look like the entrance to a place of Hindu worship. Despite having converted to Islam, Chakrabuana Gapura built in 1430 to honor the Hindu legacy of his ancestors. The 15th century original bricks were bonded together using the palm sap and rubbed together to produce the heat of the strengthening adhesive.
"As you can see, even centuries later, they are still strong today," said Mas Iman, adding that the palm sap is much stronger than cement.
doors surrounding the 25-hectare palace complex are decorated with Chinese and Dutch porcelain pieces. Foundations pendopos (gazebos) in external courses share Hindu style red brick doors. She Chinese relief raincloud mega door, which symbolizes the Asian philosophy that a leader must be cool head, thus restoring the balance in a stormy society, and the shower with life.
However, three angle of pendopo Joglo roofs are clearly Javanese Muslims. An altar has two poles, symbolizing Islamic beliefs. The "Pandawa Lima", which can accommodate the commander of the army, five poles symbolizing the pillars of Islam and prayer times. The pendopo from which the Sultan observes the events happening outside the courts has 20 poles symbolizing the qualities of Allah.
We entered the throne room from a side entrance. Shoes must be removed to recognize the presence of the Sultan as holy ground.
"The Chinese believe that in the houses, the front door and the back door must never be exactly opposite each other. That's why the hallway to the front door is inclined, "said Mas Iman. "The Chinese call it feng shui."
The front door is open only sacred days of celebrations, which include Javanese New Year ( "1 Suro"), Sunan Gunung Jati pilgrimage day ( "Grebeg Syawal"), and the anniversary of Muhammad ( "Maulidan").
ME was drawn to a framed photo of Cirebonite royal emblem. Macan Ali is a stylized tiger sitting in the calligraphy of the first Islamic faith ( "No God but Allah"). In a way, it reminded me of the Jewish Lion of Judah, which in the Christian tradition refers to Jesus Christ.
A leading relief in the room is the Kembang Kanigaran (national flower), designed by Prince Kararangan the 18th century. The red, green and gold embossed lotus bouquet is composed of limestone.
Lotus in Buddhism symbolizes a leader rising above the waters and the protection of habitat underneath. Red and gold are obvious Chinese influences, symbolizing joy and prosperity. Green reflects the Islamic heritage of the Sultanate and the color of Paradise. A pair of white gold cockatoo perched on the bouquet, symbolizing peace.
Finally, the walls bearing the Kembang Kanigaran are covered with ceramic tiles of Delft blue and brown. In the 17th century, Dutch colonialists presented them as gifts to the Sultan Syafiudin Matangaji, hoping to corrupt facilitating Dutch power in Cirebon.
"Many Sundanese kingdoms fell back then," says Mas Iman, "including the Banten Sultanate. - Created by the son of Sunan Gunung Jati The Dutch burned his palace ground today only. mosque remains. "But Cirebon did not yield to bribes and therefore lasts strong.
Nevertheless, the Sultan graciously cherished Delft tiles, which were painted with scenes from Christian biblical stories. These include priest Zechariah and the Angel, the Immaculate Conception, Mary and Joseph on their way to Bethlehem, the Passion, the Crucifixion and the conversion of Paul.
"Islam recognizes the Torah, the Psalms, and even the Gospel as the Word of God. It is therefore acceptable to decorate the palace with these Christian tiles, "said Mas Iman." We share accounts such as the creation of man, the Great Flood, the sacrifice of the Son of Abraham. They are both Muslims and Christians. And the two religions teach goodness. "
Today, Cirebon is still known as a city with strong Islamic roots, but which boasts a population of various religions. It is one of the most low rates of crimes motivated by religious hatred in Indonesia, and followers of all religions can worship there with peace.
So, this Christmas was not exactly tree trimming, Santa shopping, and service the church for me. But on this trip to Cirebon, I felt that perhaps Indonesia is, after all, a country that many non-Christians who walk in the footsteps of the Savior call home. and with that thought in mind, I think I could hear the angels singing, "Peace on earth and good will to men."
Kasepuhan Keraton Cirebon
Jl Keraton Kasepuhan No. 43
Desa Kasepuhan
Kecamatan Lemahwungkuk
Cirebon
West Java
visiting hours: 8:00 00-16h00 daily
admission Rp5.000
you may request a abdi dalem to guide you on tour. tipping is not mandatory, but can be enjoyed because they are unpaid devotees of Keraton.
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