Old Dhaka is a hodgepodge of narrow lanes, crumbling houses are home to a myriad of craftsmen and a history that dates back over 400 years. There are no accurate maps of the area, there are very few signs of the road and almost nobody speaks English. But wandering the historic streets will bring you up close and personal in Bangladesh and Bangladeshis.
Bangladesh is of course a waterfront lot, so it's just that the river should dominate the capital. The Buriganga is a business lifeline, a transportation hub and a floating market all mixed into one fascinating aquatic package.
old Dhaka city extends about an inner mile teeming shores and has changed little over the centuries from when Arakan and European traders pirates were attracted to the wealth of this outpost is the Mughal Empire. Indeed, if these pirates and traders back today they would find little has changed along the riverbank. More people, yes, but most buildings and industries would still be recognizable.
Sadarghat is at the heart of the region. It is three floors of ferries here are overnight trips south of the towns and villages still without a direct route from their capital. Among the passenger ferries colossus seeking an incredible variety of small vessels serving the needs of local businesses and users.
throughFlat bed ferries regularly Buriganga, stunted by passenger ferries much, transportation of a handful of people to the opposite shore, their force all boaters tendons, sweating under the hot sun sweat stain their turbans and sarongs.
Produce is still being unloaded with carriers carrying onions and potatoes, vitals in the local diet, their heads up the gentle slope to the nearby market along Ahsanullah road. The road, like everything in this area is narrow and motorized vehicles can not reach. Instead, the goods are loaded onto wooden carts which are then drawn out to their destinations across the city.
The Ahsan Manzil or Pink Palace is close to Sadarghat overlooking the bustling waterway. Built by a wealthy Kashmiri businessman who made his Dhaka home, this impressive house with its staircase dominating now houses an interesting museum detailing a Dhaka now long forgotten and peaceful gardens provide a much needed respite from the hubbub of the streets.
Each burst narrow Shopfront with economic activity, whether conch shell bangle makers, Hindu artifacts or incredibly small coffee shops with tiny stools that grow only 12 inches from the ground. Some shops are brightly lit; others offer a wall mounted some candles recalling a bygone era, but in fact there is a practical aspect to the wax. Dhaka's growing population places a high demand on its infrastructure and energy reductions are a regular event.
The space is at a premium low Hindu Street, as light as large buildings ensure long shadows for most of the day. The incessant ringing of bells in the darkness by rickshaw riders looking forward to a little soothing and hypnotic even both.
Some of the first settlers of the East were the Armenians and their legacy endures even to this day in downtown Dhaka with Armanitola appointed district. Never particularly numerous, even at their peak during the height of the British Raj them small community now has nine families who still regularly attend services of the Armenian Church on Armanitola Road, as they have done since it opened in 1781.
the church is usually locked, but there is a guard and friendly locals usually call if people want to have a look around. It will be open to the church, which is a narrow chapel with wooden seats and a high vaulted ceiling.
Dhaka is all about people. Whether schoolchildren rickshaw or women breaking bricks on the side of the street cage, sea urchins playing barefoot in the debris thrown from a failed or exhausted construction site, sweat-stained cart pullers advantage time of scarce stop munching a biscuit, the old city of Dhaka gives you a snapshot of how life is for most Bangladeshis in their capital city
Logistics -. the best way to see the old town is to go with a guide. Many people do not know the places you can visit, even if they could understand English
Move -. The only way is by rickshaw. The streets and alleys are too narrow for any type of motorized transport
Getting to Bangladesh -. Regular flights to Dhaka from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok
Visas -. Varies according to nationality. The best thing is to contact your embassy of Bangladesh nearest
Places to stay -. A good choice is Pacific Hotel in Motijheel, the main commercial area (www.pacifichoteldhaka.com) but the area is very quiet at night. Al-Razzaque International is more central to the old town and on a busy street, the north-south road. But busy does not mean busy! Sheraton and Pan Pacific Hotels can also be found a little further north
Where to eat -. The Motijheel area is home to a growing number of small deli type places that offer reasonably priced western food in clean environments. Helvettia is an example right next to the Hotel Pacific. Al-Razzaque International has a large dining room downstairs, which is popular with locals and tourists
General information -. The best resource for information is a Bangladeshi brothers couple called Mahmud and Mahfuz. They can help organize hotels, the airport pick-ups as well as guiding people around Dhaka, and of course the Old Town. They were mentioned in the latest Lonely Planet guide to Bangladesh and are highly recommended.
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