The Spice Islands are wrapped in a story aromatic cloves, mace and nutmeg, kings and sultans, spices wars, and the rise and fall of the invading armies.
As I traveled around the Spice Island chain, I saw massive groves of cloves and nutmeg hung on the volcanic islands perfect conical dotting the Molucca Sea. In the 8th century Chinese merchant ships sailed through the Moluccas (Maluku), and the Arabs followed later. The spice wars involved the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British, who fought in the lucrative trade in exotic spices.
We remember this trade spices on the note of Rs 1000, which proudly displays Tidore Island near Ternate, one of the famous Spice Islands. It was here that I discovered my first Portuguese fort
Fort Tolluko in Ternate. | Photo by David Metcalf
I leaned against the stone wall of the old Fort Tolukko, Ternate, soaking in the history. This beautifully preserved 16 e century Portuguese fort is protected by a large solid stone wall from 10 meters impressive. Fort Tolukko is located in the village of Duga Duga overlooking the Molucca Sea. It was built by the Portuguese to protect the clove industry of the island, which at that time was the only place in the world where the cloves increased. Later, the plants were smuggled out and found their way to Africa and other places, where the clove plantations were established.
I am impressed by the two dominant bulwarks that were in front of the fort, which is typical of the Portuguese fortress architecture. I found my visit to this fort was more a reflection of activity. Listening spellbinding stories told by my guide made me fall in the history of the islands and set the tone for what was to come next.
My next stop was a visit to the home of Alfred Russel Wallace where the famous "Letter from Ternate" was written in 1858. Alfred Wallace was a naturalist and zigzagged his way through the Indonesian archipelago collect more than 3,000 bird skins, including the famous bird of paradise, 20,000 beetles and butterflies and land shells.
His travels took him to Borneo, Sulawesi, Sumatra and Java all the way to New Guinea. It was between 60 and 70 separate trips to the islands dotted across the vast archipelago, often visiting the same island two or three times to make more collection for different seasons.
document the natural history of the region, he finally wrote his theory of evolution by Charles Darwin, whom he admired as a naturalist and geologist leader. Darwin's theory of natural selection is rather controversial, as is alluded to by many a scholar he was in fact the letter from Alfred Wallace's Ternate and exhaustive research that cracked the code, so to speak, on the "question some change".
Darwin had worked for 20 years on the question of how the animals came to be different. When Wallace's letter arrived from Ternate (which took three months to get to England), it seems that he summarized in just 4000 words key elements of the theory of evolution. Darwin had researched volumes of material and made no public statements except to prominent scientific friends, off the record, about his theories. As Darwin approached his 50th birthday, he was still publishing his magnum opus and was a semi-recluse living in a household with 15 servants and a rich woman who had money to family Empire Wedgwood.
By comparison, Wallace was a lonely wanderer, not university. He was a field naturalist and a very shy person, while Darwin was in a stronger position, as he had completed many years of painstaking work. When Darwin presented his work at the Linnean Society, a company dedicated to natural history, he was largely content Wallace. He presented three documents: two letters of his own ideas about evolution written to his friends in 1842 and again in 1844 and another document that married the content of the letter of Ternate Wallace with his own ideas. This has been presented without the permission or the mention of his name Wallace.
After this was welcomed, Darwin rushed to print the manuscript and gave the name On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection . The book was a huge success. Thirteen years and six editions later, the book has not recognized the work of Wallace. Darwin's name was on the book and his theory of evolution by natural selection, or "survival of the fittest" has become the most profound scientific development of the modern era.
Fortunately for Darwin, when Wallace finally left Indonesia and came home, the humble Alfred Russel Wallace was largely concerned with the cataloging of his beloved insect and bird skins that had been shipped in thousands, and began working on his own book.
It is in the book of Wallace the Malay Archipelago that the true genius of Wallace is revealed. Since its publication in 1869 the book was never sold. Wallace was an extraordinary man who lived in Ternate 1858-1861, and as I stood at the back door of his humble home, I felt this man's work dedication. He contributed so much to the natural history and the discovery of the origin of man.
Interesting Facts
The Moluccas
[IslandsTernate | Photo by David Metcalf
The name Maluku is thought to have been derived from the term of the Arab operator in the region, Jazirat al-Muluk or "Island of the Kings." That Arab traders brought back to their home port were exotic spices: cloves, mace and nutmeg. These were sold to Venetian merchants and became known in Europe as "the nuts of Muscat." Because of the high value of these spices in Europe and the big profits they have generated many adventurers followed the footsteps of the Chinese and the Arabs; first the Portuguese and later the Dutch followed by the British
the Birds of Paradise
Maluku two species endemic bird of paradise :. red-bellied Pittas and Wallace standardwing bird of Paradise.
book Wallace
naturalists ecology Moluccas fascinated for centuries. the book of Alfred Russel Wallace the Malay archipelago , was the first major study of the natural history of the region and is an important resource for the study of Indonesian biodiversity.
recommended reading
more recommended reading
The islands travel Spice: looking Wallace by Tim Severin.
Moluccas
The Maluku Islands formed a single province since Indonesian independence until 1999, when it was divided into two provinces. A new Northern Province, Moluccas, incorporates the area between Morotai and Sula, with the arc of islands of Buru and Seram to Wetar remaining in existing Maluku province
Highlights :. Moluccas
Directions: scheduled flights from Jakarta and major cities of Ambon and Ternate Indonesian Service
Where to stay:. Seatrek sailing adventures offer 7 and 10 days cruises on traditional schooners Phinisi around the Spice Islands Ternate and Ambon. This is a comfortable way to see the famous islands and invited guest speakers present fascinating evening of talks on board. www.seatrekbali.com
What to bring:
An umbrella (for shade protection), sunscreen , mosquito repellent, hat, walking shoes, swimmers and swim shirt for the many hours you spend in the water diving around the island stopping at beautiful remote beaches.
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