Borneo is the third largest island in the world, is politically shared by three countries, Indonesia, Malaysia and Brunei. The island has more than 250 indigenous tribes, which are commonly called Dayaks. Since 1974, Michael has more than 150 expeditions into the heart of Borneo.
Michael with trophy skulls in Borneo in 1977
What made you choose Borneo?
When I was a child, I read about the wild man of Borneo, which captured my imagination. Then, in 1974, we met a couple who had just returned Legian Borneo, John and Mary DeConey. I asked how we could get there and within days we were out of Borneo for an adventure.
What headhunters?
We hear stories about famous hunters of Borneo heads, which are quite true. Walking in the inner porch of a long house, one can see hundreds of trophy skulls hanging in sight, proudly displayed, taken by the war and by the bold challenges. When a warrior cuts a head, obtained with a ring tattoo on her finger. I met several old men who proudly showed me their tattooed hands completely full of trophy rings. An old warrior told me he had more room on his hands and began to tattoo rings on his feet. Pretty awesome stuff!
What are the inherent dangers of River region of Borneo at that time?
Travel in the jungles of the third largest island in the world comes with many dangers; malaria, dengue, poisonous snakes, insects and be injured without medical support could be fatal. Borneo rivers are some of the most difficult and dangerous in the world.
Grand Bahau chef and wife
Tell me about a dangerous event on the river.
once on the Mahakam River in East Borneo (Kalimantan), myself and three Bauhaus Dayak were heading downstream in an eight-meter boat when suddenly ahead I could see that we are fast approaching a broad set of life in fast danger. I proposed to my Dayak driver to pull over to the side of the river. So, me and two Dayaks could walk through the cargo off and the driver could only rush through the rapids. But the driver assured me not to worry (last infamous words). Just like that we entered the mouth of the dragon. Halfway through the rapids of the canoe capsized, throwing the cargo and the four of us into the raging river. We lost all the cargo, plus my Dayak crew. His body popped up two days later downstream. It was a really scary experience!
I heard you were the first person to introduce the Borneo baskets (of anjat) to the outside world. Tell me about it.
Yes, we were the first to introduce this beautiful backpack woven rattan to the outside world. Borneo bag called anjat is native to most of the Dayak tribes. We see it everywhere in Bali today and has become a symbol for travelers of being in Bali. My ultimate goal was to get people to start a cottage industry for this beautiful backpack, and now this goal has been achieved.
Tell me a personal story, which took place while traveling in Borneo.
After many expeditions in the jungles of Borneo, I had heard of liberal sexual traditions of the tribes of Sarawak. I was curious as hell to find out more about the Iban tribe and their liberal culture of promiscuity. Now that door of opportunity had finally presented itself. I was young and my testosterone bubbling over. Soon I had to find out if this was true or just a fable story. I had just discovered!
Michael on Katibas River, West Borneo
One night while visiting a village on the upper river Katibas Sarawak, I would be whether the stories I had heard were true. When the entertainment for the evening was over, all the elders and children taken from their baliks (apartments). I stayed there with a small group of teenagers, chatting about cultural differences, when suddenly one of the boys asked me if I wanted the girl with the red blouse, the one that was flirting with me. Suddenly, her exotic face Gauguin-esque smiles in the eye of my mind. Wow! Yes I remember! So the boys said she was waiting for me in the balik his family. Now all the old and the children slept. They showed me the door to the balik, explaining that the room was lit by a lamp at very low palm oil, and inside, there would be plenty of beds with mosquito nets covering each of them.
They said, "The girl will be waiting inside for you. It is the first screen to the right side of the balik. Just open the net and quietly slip inside. Go! it awaits you! "
Nervously I entered the balik. I found the first mosquito net on the right side and quietly opened the curtains. A fear began to run through my head. What if I get caught? These people are headhunters! I lay down beside her, wrapped my arms around her and gently cuddled her hot body. Then BAM! I was struck in the head! All I could see was swirling stars! Then she let out a scream that woke the whole longhouse. I had just been heavily hit in the face by the elbow of his old grandmother. A wave of chatter rippled throughout the longhouse, which then turned into laughter. That's when I realized that I had just been punked by a group of teenage boys Iban! I woke up the next morning with a swollen black eye and a lot of laughter from my friends Iban. As for adventures in paradise!
Any suggestions for those wishing to visit Borneo and where to go?
The jungles of Borneo are but for hardcore happy camper. Equatorial temperatures are scorching hot and humid with many mosquitoes and other strange crawling creatures. No villas here, no Internet, no mobile phones, and the comfort and privacy are rare commodities. food from the local village is very exotic indeed. And if you really want to see a true culture and authentic Dayak, you must travel deep inside, that can mean days by boat. There is a place I recommend you visit and is Apo Kayan in the mountainous central highlands of Indonesian Borneo. You will find the real deal. To get there, you must charter in advance, a plan (it is expensive) operated by missionaries airlines. Good luck and good luck!
Thank you, Michael!
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