This may seem as if I do, but did you know that it is possible to spend a weekend away from Jakarta, in the hills of the Sundanese campaign without having to get in a car or languish for hours in bumper- to bumper traffic? All that is needed is some planning. But first, let me tell you about the magical place, and then I go to the secret of how to get there.
In the foothills of Gunung Salak volcano, and near the city of Sukabumi, is a small place called Cicurug. There, a few kilometers in the hills is a farm called Portibi. But Portibi is not only an old farmhouse; it is an organic farm, the fruit of a dream of a young Californian with a love for Indonesia. You may ask: how a bule California end up on the side of a volcano in West Java? The farm is a joint venture between Jocean Bowler, from central California, and its Indonesian original host family. After arriving in Indonesia in the early 00s and its hosts Jocean decided to create Portibi in 04 in a clove farm that has not been used to its full potential in 15 hectares of hillside. Putting aside the thesis of his master on land use in Indonesia, Jocean realized he had a more important mission. With an emphasis on living in harmony with the environment and not beyond taking what is made, Jocean on building a firm that would preserve the flavors, endemic natural beauty and local crafts that Indonesia is in danger of losing his rush towards modernity. He created a refuge from the city using the inspiration of the past Sunda, complemented by touches of modern technology to make it all work.
Today Lodges Ekologika to Portibi Farm is still a work in progress. Although the main living areas are complete, including a sumptuous dining room, large kitchen, Cannibal Lounge Pacifist, only three hectares are cultivated. The farm has accommodation for up to 30 people in a dispersed collection of bungalows and huts made with recycled wood from mostly older buildings. Some cabins are traditional Sundanese rice barns apart and reassembled at the farm. All are lit by solar energy; Solar cells absorb sunlight during the day and spread light through the light bulbs in the night. But nature has its limits: if you leave the lights on for too long, they lack the juice. A well stocked bar is conveniently located in the lounge, which is ideal for strolling. It also contains a collection of board games, books, music largely of the 1970s and 80s, and a guitar for those who want to strum.
Included in the price of a stay in Portibi are three healthy meals one day, who strive to make good use of organic farm products. But fear not, Jocean always love a good steak or fish fillet. An excellent cook, Jocean and well trained team throw together the most delicious natural and tasty dishes using influences from around the world. And there is an excellent wine list if you want to wash with something special, like a full-bodied Italian red. They can be organic pioneers, but they like to live in Portibi.
One of the must-dos while Portibi is to go on a walk around the property. Visit workers and perhaps learn more about what they grow and lend them a hand planting or gathering a basket of arugula leaves or parsley for dinner. You can also collect all the green you can choose to take home.
Do not forget to take in the nature that you insects, birds, sounds, smells surrounds. But beware of the tracks; beautiful creatures they are, but they can leave you with the itchiest rashes. You can not miss the butterflies here and hitting enough to visit Portibi reason; tropical varieties as big as your hand flit from plant to plant. If you are really keen on the side of agriculture of things, Portibi is also a member of the WWOOF organization, meaning Willing Workers Opportunities on Organic Farms. WWOOFers can spend three weeks or more to the farm with free accommodation and food if they contribute by doing the job of a decent day every day.
If you are feeling a little more adventurous, there is a great hike up into the national Halimun jungle park that is above on the slopes of Gunung Salak. The trek leads to the waterfall and rock pool Citaman where if you want you can jump in a cool bath. The hike takes 1.5 hours to the waterfall. If you are in the most intense treks or even expeditions to the summit of Gunung Salak (a good 5 hour climb), they can also be arranged with a little advanced planning.
And now the secret bit. Believe it or not, Kereta Api Indonesia (KAI), the Indonesian railway company, has revitalized a track in the hills of Bogor. The train goes to Sukabumi, then go all the way in Cianjur. It is the journey of about an hour in Bogor Cicurug, the nearest station to the farm and, if the weather is clear, can provide stunning views of the peaks of Gunung Salak and Gede. The three trains a day are in high demand, especially on weekends, so it is essential to book online in advance. The train from Jakarta to Bogor is simple, but then you have to walk about 400 meters from the main station of a smaller adjacent station from where trains depart for Sukabumi.
So what are you waiting for now that the secret? Go green in Portibi!
Just call the farm (0266) 257 7115 or email info@portibi.com to make a reservation and book the train, called Pangrango , on the site of KAI, the www.tiketkai.com.
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