A punish yet seductive ascension into heaven of Central Java
philosophical arguments are usually given when the climbers why they climb mountains. British climber George Mallory, for example, famous aphorism "because it's there", while the legendary New Zealand explorer Sir Edmund Hillary made the existential notion that by climbing a mountain, we are in reality " conquer us ". However, just after climbing the 76th highest peak in the world - Mount Lawu Central Java - I would say that for many climbers reason to want to climb a mountain is much simpler, and it is the visceral pleasures that come from the stunning views at the top !
as very high mountains of Indonesia will, Mount Lawu is not particularly well known, but at 3,265 meters, it falls just 411 meters before (probably) the most famous mountain in Indonesia, Mount Rinjani Lombok (3,676 meters).
Mount Rinjani, however, is not the most practical of mountains to climb, which requires a serious investment in time and money. Mount Lawu, however, is easily accessible from Jakarta and trails are so well marked that even a drunk and very nearsighted climber would find hard to lose (no, I'm not autobiographical here!). Mount Lawu is also a good test for novice climbers -. To see if they have "what it takes" to mount even the most difficult mountains in the country
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to get to Mount Lawu you must first go to the city of Central Java Surakarta (Solo or, as we call it otherwise). We took the night bus who left the dark area and Kampung Rambutan filthy from East Jakarta. In what appeared to be the age of the bus struggled through the crazy traffic on the toll road out of town.
Eventually, however, the traffic began to ease just after the satellite city of Bekasi and we thought we were finally on our way - and then the pilot decided it was time to eat and pulled on a wide service area where we had our evening meal in what looked like a huge aircraft hangar. Bizarre.
Back in our seats 30 minutes later and the bus hurtling towards Central Java on newly built toll roads (thanks, Jokowi), most of us doze soon to nostalgic songs "Indonesians love by people Ebiet G. Ade, Alda Risma and rock's most talented female star ever to have lived, Nike Ardilla -. best known for his heartbreaking ballad Bintang Kehidupan
Everything was then a blur until, at some ungodly hour before dawn we were awakened by dangdut play music from a radio in a streetside warung. We stopped for coffee; no nonsense Starbucks, but the Javanese good coffee - Kopi Tobruk - so strong and sweet, it could breathe life into a golek wayang puppet. Revitalized, we left and within an hour or arrival at Terminal Palur, a house typically ropey bus station looking on the outskirts of Solo. From there, we moved to a smaller bus to get to Tawangmangu, the nearest town of Mount Lawu in a bone tower tremors that takes about an hour.
Tawangmangu is a pretty nice place with accommodation if you require it. There are two trails leading to the summit of Mount Lawu (named Cemoro Kandang and Cemoro Sewu), starting not far from each other, and easily accessible from Tawangmangu by omprengan (minibus) in about 20 minutes. On both tracks, I highly recommend using the Cemoro Kandang track to climb the mountain as far 12km summit - from what Cemoro Sewu 8 km -. There are more flat sections, which makes for a more enjoyable ride
history
one thing to appreciate about Mount Lawu is that is a very sacred place.
According to Javanese legend, the mountain is the final resting place of the last king of Majapahit Empire, Prabu Brawijaya V -. although his body was never found
No mountain in Indonesia is considered haunted or as mystical as Mount Lawu and despite being "alive", he can also hide his identity. For this reason, the climbers are supposed to whisper to the mountain and ask permission each time they need something - say, for relief, for example. Swearing or cursing is strictly prohibited. "Upset the mountain," say the people who live in the surrounding villages and "you can not be allowed to walk the sacred land." The losses over the years have been many and as recently as last year seven hikers died in a forest fire
The View from Mount Lawu. | Photo Martin Jenkins
The rise using path Cemoro Kandang
There is a long travel to the summit (about eight to ten hours), so you'll need to spend the night there. We brought tents but you can also plant in the warung of mbok Yem near the top of the very simple fashion on rattan mats provided. On the track until there are five positions that offer basic shelter from the elements
make no mistake, however -. This walk in the park. The trail is very steep in parts and fresh legs do not last long. For me, in the middle of the afternoon the trek had turned into a battle between my mind and my body. How can I go on? My shirt is soaked in sweat - a typical bule weakness - and I have a burning thirst. painful legs like crazy. But turning back is not an option. Not now ...
At the time we had reached three after most of us were completely broken. We relaxed and enjoyed the spectacular views before remembering it was almost dark, and we still had to walk to post four, hour and a half drive, where we will camp for the night.
We continued our torch beams head. This section was a complete beast up and so steep in places the trail zigzagged crazily back and forth. But then, what is that smell? The smell of human excrement! This can only mean one thing of course - we were on hand after the four! The literal dumping grounds for those too lazy to cover their shit: by far the most disturbing aspects of the climb. Why treat a sacred mountain like that?
The next day we went down to an early start. It is walking distance of a good time to post five before a grueling 30 minute climb almost incredibly steep path to the top known as Hargo Dumilah. We created it! All the pain instantly forgotten. Well, not too long, of course - we still have to go back down
The descent using path Cemoro Sewu
Unlike! the path Cemoro Kandang where we found that no drinks (or food) can be purchased, refreshments are readily available in most messages on the trail Cemoro Sewu - probably save my life
down the mountain was also difficult. The road was incredibly steep and especially being paved with large stones I was surprised my knee joints will not break completely at some point. Yet in the late afternoon and about five hours later, we did a poster for the legs like jelly. From there it was an hour or walking through a forest of pine return to the main road. sacred mountain or not, one question was now in my mind. **** When can I get a blessed Bintang?
In practice
- No guides are needed because the trails are very well defined and in many places paved with large stones.
- Be prepared with all the right gear for it is very cold at night and hypothermia kills. night the temperatures range as low as 0-4 degrees.
- Bring a minimum of 2 liters of bottled water.
- Travel as light as possible.
- Do not rise during the rainy season - really, it's not worth
- be mentally prepared for a very difficult hike
- Take the hike seriously ... If you have an accident, you will not be airlifted out!
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