Look in a travel guide and description of Surabaya will not exactly entice you. For many years Lonely Planet described the city as one of the open sewers and industrial dirt. These days, the city threw out of his behavior and art become much more glitzy. It is still a city that defines its purpose as mercantile and commercial, but with a growing middle class, it has developed a lot since it was just a big city. Still second in Jakarta, but with its own culture, it can stand alone.
For visitors with an interest beyond the culture of glitzy shopping center, night joints and boot fashionable restaurants, there are rewards. Surabaya its foundation dates back to the early 13 e century, and we see clearly the early Portuguese maps. He came to prominence in the 18 e century the spice trade. Extended to the east are the Moluccas which were disputed by the Portuguese, British and Dutch for their performance nutmeg, mace and cloves, so dear to Europeans as flavoring and preservatives. In the midst of 19 e century, the Dutch administration had opened the colony to the investment of home and the immigration of those who seek opportunities in its plantations, towns and villages. Surabaya much of that time was a much richer city than the administrative city of Batavia, modern Jakarta, because of its commercial activity and the level of investment. Old Surabaya today of this growth spurt dates that lasted until the Japanese occupation of 1942.
Wharf where Phinisi teak schooners are moored
Any exploration of the city should begin at the dock where Phinisi teak schooners are moored. Made by the Bugis people of South Sulawesi, these beautiful boats sailing in these waters for centuries. Coming from the islands to the north and east outside Surabaya with products - coconut shells for the production of oil, bananas, wood, and the return of manufactured goods are not available, - plastic products, furniture, cooking oil barrels, gallons of drinking water and construction, it is not only a tourist attraction, although it is that too, but a thriving scene that would there was the same a century or more.
We walk from the port through the narrow busy streets that were once part of the central business district, but now are the belly of the local economy of small entrepreneurs, traders and merchants. Much of the architecture here is 19 e century and is immersed in a picturesque light faded, with some keeping old facades in good condition. Some beautiful buildings are distinguished, including Javasche Bank From the modern father of Bank Indonesia, incorporating European and Oriental embellishments, which became known as the "Indies" style of architecture. The House of Sampoerna is not far from here, the first factories Sampoerna clove cigarettes and nowadays an excellent museum in the entrepreneurship of the family of Chinese immigrants Liem seeng Tee, which began as guardians stall and rose to become one of Indonesia's richest families. Surabaya owes much to Chinese who dominate the economy here. So many came as economic refugees and made their home Surabaya, contributing to the prosperity of Surabaya today.
Strolling further south we come to Jembatan Merah, Pont Rouge, where in October 1942 British Brigadier General Mallaby, which was responsible for accepting the Japanese surrender and return to Dutch rule, was murdered by euphoric young nationalists on the Japanese surrender and determined they would never be under the yoke of foreign troops, triggering a series of events that have been central in the struggle for independence which ultimately led to the independence in 1949. This area is the center of the old city that thrived on income from plantation crops - tobacco, coffee, cocoa, rubber, sugar and salt - that fueled the local economy and benefited the Netherlands back home. Beautiful buildings line Jalan Jembatan Merah. The original seat of the rubber Goodyear, prudential insurance companies, banks and export / import agencies. The best example of the Indies style can be seen in the large PTPNXI building, once the headquarters company of Indonesian Handelsvereeniging Amsterdam and designed by Hulswit, Fermont & Cuypers, an architectural firm based in Jakarta responsible for so many beautiful buildings in the city.
We are on the edge of Chinatown here and we walk to the oldest Chinese temple Surabaya ( of klenteng) , we go through many examples of Chinese houses with their distinctive roofs gutters with their spikes. A Rumah Abu , a sanctuary of home, belonging to one of the most important Chinese families Surabaya is rather forlornly on what was once a Chinese street. Hok An Kiong was built in the 1850s by a Chinese sailor from China who had dedicated to the goddess of the sea, Muzo. Built by a Chinese craftsman there is also a graceful statue of the goddess Thian Siang Sing Boo in one of the four chambers of the sanctuary.
Perhaps a million people live in the Old Surabaya and Pasar Pabean, the oldest existing market town of food and the central food source, is one of the most colorful stops on our exploration . Madurese sellers shallots, garlic, chilies, lemongrass and spices make this fantastic photo opportunity. Basically, a fish market has more than 30 species that will end on the menus of many restaurants in Surabaya seafood. After the hectic compression, it is a relief to get out into the daylight and walk on our way to the Arab neighborhood. Arab traders mostly from Yemen settled here over the centuries, and who knows why they chose to stay rather than return on their boats, but they formed a community that is robust in its most orthodox interpretation of Islam . Sunan Ampel here, one of the nine Muslim preachers credited to the spread and establishment of Islam in Java after a millennium of Hindu-Buddhism, taught and is buried. This is a starting point for many who in their lives hoping to visit the resting places of pilgrimage revered nine.
oldest existing food market Pasar Pabean Surabaya
the covered souk in the Arab neighborhood remind anyone who has visited North Africa or Middle Eastern traditional markets there. traditional foods associated with Arab cuisine - dates, pistachios, raisins, chickpeas, halewa, sambosas - are sold here. This is a warm and friendly place for Western visitors. Often a hand is extended and reception of
A ten minute drive takes us into the administrative center of the city -. The modern building for its time, the office of East Java governor and opposite the Museum hero, which is on the site razed the Palace of Justice, who was sacked and destroyed on the news of the Japanese surrender. Used as the headquarters of the dreaded Japanese secret police, the kempeitai , it was the scene of one of the many Surabaya battles that began in 1945. Now it houses a museum for the struggle for independence and the Tugu Pahlawan, a striking obelisk memorial and a fitting conclusion to our exploration of the colorful past Surabaya
province East Java
Directions: flights to Surabaya are available on all airlines in Indonesia and there are regular flights from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Hong Kong. The trains connect major cities
Where to sleep :. Hotel Majapahit, Jl. Tunjungan. http://www.hotel-majapahit.com/ The most emblematic hotel full of history and charm.
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