The sweet clove scent of toasting in the sun hung in the air as my ojek sailed over the green hills of Minahasa Tenggara. Road outlook trapeze plunging hill in a mangrove creek laced, bright with shades of blue and green. From a distance I could see patches of light and dark colors in the water, suggesting the presence of live reef below.
This is my first site Ratatotok. The first stories I heard of this coastal village associated with the tragedy Buyat, a highly publicized 04-07 cases alleging the involvement of a multinational gold mine polluting Buyat Bay to the point of death of a small girl.
That said, friends from North Sulawesi were excited Ratatotok beaches and diving scenes. "Better than Bunaken," many have said.
Today, years after the mine closed, its legacy is still omnipresent in Ratatotok-Buyat, as are persistent feelings among residents.
58 year-old fisherman seasoned Rusdin does not usually take the tourists, but we took a few mangroves growing on the high reefs. He turned off the engine as we floated on the shallow clear waters full of marine life.
I snorkelled in a realm of purple corals table, brain coral pink, round, yellow Acropora cervicornis and schools of small colorful fish. It seemed natural and virgin for me, more so than I snorkelled in Togian. But I felt that what I saw was not the whole story.
"Looks like your coral reefs are recovering well after the mine ceased operations," I said. "Is one of these artificial reefs planted by the company for post-mining rehabilitation?"
Before the multinational company began operations, Rusdin could hope to catch a fish Rp.300,000 value on a bad night. Today, he considers it a good night if he can Rp.0,000. He said local fishermen and artisanal miners are on good terms despite their opposing interests. "They are simple people trying to make a living, just like us," said Rusdin. But different standards applicable to the company, even if it adheres to the strictest environmental regulations.
According Syafrudin Wangko, president of the Coordination of communities Mining-INVOLVED (BKMKT), part of resentment towards society is because government regulations tend to favor large companies rather than humble locals, and that these companies tend to contribute to the government rather than the communities themselves.
Wangko said the damage in Buyat Bay was expanded and caused the risk to public health. Hence the tourism promotion were concentrated in Ratatotok where aesthetic pollution impacts are barely visible.
"We do not know what happened to artificial coral reefs. They would probably buried under the mud thick now, and pollution continues generated by the current artisanal miners would be difficult for the natural coral to recover, "said Wangko. In Ratatotok, the company could conveniently images present dynamic coral reefs and take credit for post-mining environmental remediation before stakeholders who know nothing avant-on marine ecosystems.
that said, Wangko gives credit to the company for the socio-economic development in all Ratatotok throughout its operations and beyond. $ 30 million for community development company funds provided very popular schools, places of worship, infrastructure, a well-equipped hospital, and aid for local fishermen and small businesses.
Wangko does not buy into the idea that tourism is a reliable and sustainable alternative livelihoods. tourism is seasonal and requires capital, skills and experience that people not currently Ratatotok.
Muhammad "Pudin" Saifuddin, the group's founder volunteers Ecotourism based Ratatotok disagree. Since 2012, it has been his mission outreach to environmental and conservation issues in Ratatotok-Buyat and identify economic opportunities for residents through the tourism industry. the group was created by concern for disunity among the pro-mining and anti-mining residents of Ratatotok, and as an attempt to engage the grassroots community in sustainable solutions.
"I can not say if the environment is damaged . I'm not a scientist. But we identify ecotourism opportunities to empower the local population despite the limitations, "said Pudin. That said, recognize the conclusions of high mercury levels in the estuary of the river Totok of Minamata Institute because of the presence of artisanal miners from returning before the big mine. He added that, during the days of mining, tourism Ratatotok-Buyat actually better developed because it has funded small businesses in Lakban beach cleaning neighboring islands.
"regarding the fishermen when the fish population is depleted, the sea is polluted. But anglers often forget that they sometimes contribute to the problem. They catch fish in coral reefs and damage with their anchors. And in the past, neighboring villages bombed for fish, "said Pudin, adding that Ratatotok was no bomb and potassium for a dozen years.
The group's activities include stores of organization of beach Lakban, the establishment of awareness billboards to the environment in the islands, which makes floating coral-friendly anchors for fishermen, and organize tours for visitors .
to attract international support and educate local fishermen and tourism micro-enterprises, the group invites travel bloggers and tourists to document the marine and terrestrial beauty Ratatotok- Buyat and satellite islands.
Ratatotok-Buyat identified 24 dive sites. A commercial diving operator Lembeh organized diving trips, but stopped because of logistical difficulties and lack of stations. A typical itinerary includes diving, a Bentor (pedicab) Visit the smoking tuna, trekking in the mangroves, visits from a hill and the course of the day in a cafe Lakban. Pudin offers room for visitors in his home in humble family and guide for free, but asks each visitor to plant a mangrove tree in return.
Pudin be contacted on 081244582923 and on Facebook as "Cak Pudin."
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