Late last year, I was invited to attend a "motor show 'in Sanur, who told me would be spectacular, which is of course if you have a passion for classic cars or bikes. Well actually, I'm not fond of either, but it was a request from a friend so I felt compelled to go. For me, I just like the thought of getting from A to B in air conditioned comfort rather than having a love affair with the car that I travel in or out.
The day was exceptionally hot and I reluctantly dragged myself away from the pool and came to what was a huge deal over several acres of land next to the beach. It was a bit like attending a country fair except this time the main attraction was an amazing range of vintage motorcycles and restored classic cars.
My friend Igor Blas, one of the event organizers was more than willing to show me around the exhibition provided that we can weave our way through the thousands. A festive air reigned with families fleeing the heat sitting on picnic blankets eating ice cream while children ran wildly through the crowds of arrival and departure of visitors.
I must admit that I was even impressed by the rows of lovingly restored Harley Davidson, Indians, BSAs and Nortons on the screen, not to mention the wide range of classic cars from each decade of the century latest. Besides the US and European motorcycles, an extensive collection of Japanese machines strutted their stuff alongside their more exotic cousins. Restored Suzukis, Hondas and Yamahas perfectly restored to their pristine original condition and presented as they were in the 50s and 60s
I'm not exactly convert to what is obviously a passport serious time on the island, but I must say I'm intrigued by a whole industry exists to make these relics back on the road in absolute mint condition.
There was a story to tell here.
I decided to track down the smart guys who really take the time to travel the landscape for dark rooms and spend months and sometimes years to rebuild a bike from scratch. With the help of the faithful Igor I started in the streets of Denpasar, Sanur and Kuta in search of artists with greasy hands and dirty overalls. Seems that there are hundreds to Bali and they do some of the best restoration in the world.
In these backstreet garages there is genius at work, but where on earth can we find a carburetor for a 1942 BSA who is lying in pieces on the floor? "Sometimes we do," I was told by an enthusiast who did not look older than twelve, and make them what they are doing. Pistons, camshafts and other pieces that make up the engine of the bike are often made from scratch or adapted from other machines whose parts are similar.
There are no textbooks here, but ingenious invention is on site. These guys work from drawings downloaded from the Internet or sent to them by other bikers. I watched fascinated as a young "mechanic" painstakingly recreated a speedometer for a Harley Davidson using pieces of metal and pieces of tin, faithfully copy a photograph he had taken on his phone of a bicycle that he had seen on a rally.
There is a growing market for these animals restored to Bali and now, having taken an interest, I see them whistling around the convoy country roads, which would make any cry passionate with pleasure to attend some of the best bikes on the road worldwide. Motorcycle clubs are actually quite prolific and weekend warriors that take the asphalt roads and paths throughout the day which sometimes take up a full circumference of Bali in a day.
My trail eventually led me to the aptly named MANSHED in Sanur, which is really a revelation. Basically it is a huge hangar, but a shed with a difference. Genius was at work here, for basically this giant space is actually a restaurant / bar, which is dedicated to the bike and all things mechanical.
The decor would any man worthy to feel like home. Tables and chairs were welded together to form a scooter eclectic collection of comfortable pods where diners can sit in comfort and watch the bikes on show. For those who love motorcycles this place would be like dying and going to heaven!
A gallery upstairs sports rows of Japanese motorcycles of the 50s and 60s, everyone saved, cleaned and rebuilt so that they look as if they never left their original showroom. The place feels as if it is after hours in a cavernous garage and mechanics packed up their tools, slipped out of their suits and retired to the bar for a cold beer. The clientele is as eclectic as the place itself and in the night I visited the place was packed with families, boys and girls in leathers proudly displaying their club colors and a multitude of business types retaining up to the bar.
Igor told me that on most Sundays at 24:00 the place fills up with customers who came for an early lunch. At 14 hours everyone gets up, puts on their helmets and the whole place "go for a ride", if you drive a humble scooter or a Harley Davidson thunder.
The convoy left for a fun ride in Denpasar and beyond, then back heads and tales are told as he sat on padded barrels informed of skillfully crafted hanging lamps from old helmets. The bar is often five or six deep, conversation is rowdy, camaraderie is palpable and, more importantly, the beer is cold.
Again this is Bali at its best, where innovation thrives and genius abounds. What's not to like?
The MANSHED is open 7 days a week from 10am to the end
Jl. Tirtanadi No 9
Sanur
Bali
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