“Perhaps life is just that ... a dream and a fear. "- Conrad
And another stay in the vast Indonesian archipelago this time in the Derawan islands off the north coast -is Kalimantan. - the name of the Indonesian part of Borneo, the third largest island in the world and the largest in Asia
I had never been to Borneo before and so it was with great enthusiasm that we got up at the ungodly hour of three hours - a calculated move, mind you, to avoid the soul-crushing of Jakarta traffic jams on the way to the airport, a huge problem many other times of the day, which often leads to missing their flights.
Our first flight brought us as far as Balikpapan, and from there we took a connecting flight to Berau, or more precisely Tanjung Redeb, the city that Conrad founded his imaginary village Sambir in his books the Almayer's folly and an Outcast of the islands
Yet, despite its associations with classical literature, Tanjung Redeb is not as attractive as it sounds. in fact, it is as commonplace as a plain cardboard box, a more attractive place in Indonesia you will struggle to find, succinctly summarized by fictional character Conrad Almayer as "this god forsaken hole."
Back at the time of Conrad, Tanjung Redeb - which is located on the banks of the great river Mahakam - was a trading post for goods from within, bird nests, gutta percha, rattan, this kind . things from time to time, the indigenous tribe of the interior would make their way to the river. - These are the Dayak headhunters and cannibals famous (at least they were), notable for their elongated earlobes and tattoos tribal
But times change and what you get to float the river in 2013 and is felled timber barges humungous size of coal, much of which comes from the vast Berau coal of pit coal mine open (in 2012, production reached about 21 million tonnes), partially owned (indirectly) by Aburizal Bakrie, Golkar party Chairman and aspiring presidential candidate 2014.
to arrive at the small port on the coast of Tanjung Redeb takes about two hours by car. You can look out the window and witness for yourself the ongoing destruction and mutilation of virgin jungles of Kalimantan once or you can keep your eyes closed. I recommend it - it is less painful
From the small port called Tanjung Batu, there is a 40 minutes by speed boat to Derawan - .. Easily the most fun part of the trip
island Derawan
Derawan is a small island that you can walk in 30 minutes and is famous for its turtles, which are easy to see when diving or snorkeling, or same of one of the piers of the island that extend in the open sea. Derawan is the most convenient place to base yourself while in the area; the rooms are cheap (not luxury dive resorts overpriced here), there are many simple restaurants to eat at, and you can also arrange diving and boat trips to other islands - of which there are 31 in total. There is a population of around 800 hardy souls living on Derawan, many famous Bajau (sea gypsies) who can trace their ancestry to the Philippines where they once lived a lifestyle nomadic.
is this paradise? Well yes and no. On the positive side, the turtles are really beautiful and means relative remoteness of the island Derawan still retains the charm of the idyllic island "Robinson Crusoe." But this can not last.
Unfortunately, people do not care much for turtles and will steal their eggs if they can (WWF had to launch a conservation program to prevent turtle eggs being stolen after they have been). In addition to this, people also consider their beautiful island to be a sort of big peak litter and throw garbage anywhere and everywhere; on land or in the sea - it does not really matter because they do not seem to care. As for your long sought peace? Well, you should definitely get on weekdays. But come the weekend and be ready to have your peace broken by groups of tourists, noisy rooms that descend on the island mass.
To reach other islands near Derawan you to the stars of the charter. Obviously the more people there are, the less it works.
Kakaban
This incredible island feels like something from Jurassic Park and features a pristine coral reef snorkeling and diving, but is best known for its lake salt water which is populated by a large number of non-stinging jellyfish - actually a really amazing place and unique snorkeling
Sangalaki
Sangalaki is best known for its mantas. Although in a rather worrying development, they become much more difficult to spot, perhaps frightened by fishermen or for other reasons.
Maratua
home for at least three luxury dive resorts, Maratua is the most populated island with c. 3000 inhabitants. Despite the crystal clear waters, however, I was surprised by the large amount of floating garbage - bags especially plastic and empty bottles, directly across from one of the dive resorts. I was assured by one of the staff of the stations it was rubbish "natural" and has nothing to do with the people who live on the island. Hmm ...
Traveller Advice
- One of the best places to stay on the island is called Reza and Dira Homestay. The rooms are newly built and located above the sea with a wooden jetty. The rooms are clean with decent beds and air conditioning, which, be warned, do not work when there are many customers that food is not big enough! The breakfast is very simple (bread), but you get a hot water tank to make coffee and tea. The price per night from July 2013 a very reasonable Rp.250k.
- To reach Derawan you need to fly to Berau. From there, you need ground transportation in Tanjung Batu, then a motorboat to Derawan. It is best to plan ahead. If you stay in Reza, they will handle for you (the return trip will cost Berau- Derawan Rp.1.4 million for three people). The Reza to contact man is Darjohn (it can be reached by phone at +62 81347955950).
- In addition to organizing transportation (including boat trips to the other islands) Darjohn is also involved in the WWF program to protect turtles. If it's the right time of year, turtles come ashore to lay their eggs (usually between 8-10pm). And if you're lucky, you might be able to see yourself. Ask Darjohn.
- Diving can easily be organized on the island (eg, dilapidated place Darakan Losmen). A new dive site in the village also has just opened. Make sure, however, that you are clear on the price or they may overcharge. Also check that the diving equipment is correct and that the dive is competent; it is a terrible long way from the nearest decompression chamber (just ask Angela).
- There are many bad restaurants on Derawan. By far the best restaurant is called Nur. It is headed by a strange middle-aged woman who is honest and an excellent cook. Its fish, squid and shrimp are always fresh. Just be prepared to wait a while for it to fix your meal
- Aside from seafood and not much, everything must be transported Berau - and thus tends to be quite expensive or unavailable . For this reason, bring lots of snacks, and if you think you might need a bottle or two of alcohol.
- Getting to Derawan is quite expensive and takes time, it does not come for a few days, but still at least a week.
- If you need to be connected to the outside world make sure you have either Telkom or XL SIM card. Other operators do not work here.
- Bring reading material. Almayer's Folly :. A story of a river of eastern by Joseph Conrad is in the public domain and can be downloaded for free on Gutenberg
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