The Javanese can tell you that the island of Madura - just 30 minutes by ferry from Surabaya - is hot and dry and the Madurese are rough and angry. They may even say that there is nothing to do there. It is not their idea of a place to go, but for the visitor who can put aside stereotypes, it offers a very different but rewarding experience.
Madura, you might think, is just a small Java, but in fact it has a culture and a language all its own distinct; incredible, given its proximity to Java and small. Just 0 km long by 30 km north to south
The island has had a difficult relationship in the past with its big neighbor. In 1624, the Javanese Sultan Agung conquered the island and added to the Empire Mataram, which at that time ruled over much of central and eastern Java. But in 1672, Prince Madurese Trunojoyo had rid the island of Javanese and it took several years and the VOC (Dutch East India Company) to put the recalcitrant island down. In 1705, the Dutch had control over the eastern half and in 1743 it was under full Dutch control. Not a particularly fertile island to operate, it is, however, a source of colonial troops and the main lucrative salt supplier for the Dutch colony. Today it is a simple Java province, but the distinctions are clear even now that it is related to Java by the Suramadu 5 km long bridge.The busiest access is by ferry crossings and go day and night and are full of Madurese living in Java. Commercial travelers with their vans are the other passengers made the most supplies come from Java. Women, more traditionally dressed as their Javanese counterparts remained with their colorful sarongs and kelambi - blouses. They adorn their bodies in gold jewelry; their true faces purposes prove their reputation for beauty.
On the Madura side of the ferry docks in the port of Kamal, but there is little to keep us here and we motor in Bangkalan, famous for its bullfights held in August and September. It has a museum and a reasonable hotel. It is here that we can drive east on the main road of Sampang and Pamekasan, or as recommended, continue north on the road to the north coast less well known, but much more beautiful in the city the most interesting of Madura, Sumenep.A brief stop at Arosbaya, half an hour north of Bangkalan, is very rewarding. In the 15 e and 16 e centuries it was the center of power and the Madurese Royal Air Mata cemetery is a peaceful place to stroll. Here are the remains of the royal line Cakraningrat and tombs are much revered. Ratu The grave of (Queen) Ibu 1569 attracts pilgrims from all over Indonesia and is still surrounded by the faithful, saying their prayers.
Toroan waterfall near Ketapang
Madura, while arid in places, has a beautiful coastline and the nearest beaches bathing is Siring Kemuning another 30 km on. Vast and austere enough, it is a popular picnic spot Sunday with the locals. Like all the beaches of Madura, it is free of the effluent and the sand is fine and golden.
In Klampis we reach the top of our ascent of the north and turn east along what is a good but narrow road along the north coast. Estuaries teeming with colorful wooden boats moored inside safe from the Java Sea. Fishing is the main occupation here, although lime is also extracted, and Pasean, ships beautifully wrought wood are being turned out a design unchanged for centuries. Close by the waterfall Air Terjun Toroan well worth a stop to see a waterfall of the river in the Java Sea.
In Pasongsongan, halfway Sumenep, there are spectacular bays, which deserve wider reputation as bathing areas. The water is cool, fine sand is overhung by trees that provide plenty of shade and the locals, while curious tourists keep their distance from sun which is rare.
A few kilometers on, beach Slopeng offers a place better known bathing, well set up for the visitors with an array of warung seafood and Kelapa muda (coconut drink), and a platform covered observation for those who want to relax and enjoy the sea view. This area of Madura is most fertile and green gradations are superb. It is just beyond here Ambunten we take the southeast road to Sumenep, only 24 km. Or we can venture eastward to Lombang beach, considered Madura best - a vast expanse of sand topped with unique Cemara udang firs and the safest pool island.Sumenep shows much pride civil; clean streets, shops painted in yellow regulation and the only city in Indonesia where becak must bear the lights in the form of oil lamps. Everywhere can be reached on foot or becak less painful, and tourists attract many, but never so polite interest. 18 e century gateway to the Jamik mosque dominates the main street. This impressive facade has Chinese and European baroque influences, while behind the mosque, with its roof on three levels, like most Javanese.
Jamik Masjid, Sumenep
In front of the town square is Sumenep of keraton (palace). The dates of the 1763 flag and paneled ceiling is hung with dozens of Dutch bulbs that many an antique collector would love to have. A museum exhibits inside the gifts given by European dignitaries over the centuries, including a 19 he service dinner century, with the Sultan image in the center of each plate in the latest technology Photo lights of the day. Take a short walk behind the Keraton we can see decaying Dutch period houses, once homes for the extended family and the Sultan prosperous Dutch. Cry for restoration, their colonnaded verandas always give a great sense of grandeur.
Just 2km from the city, the royal cemetery of Asta Tinggi is well worth a detour. Located on a hill with a beautiful view of the city, its 18 e century facade is very European and tombs and mausoleums here are highly revered by locals.
It is possible to drive 30 minutes to Kalianget, the old salt city, and take a boat to the nearby island, Puteran. These can be rented at the dock. The island is untouched by modernity, is picturesque and very friendly. It is rare that tourists get the here.A weekend was spent at a stone's throw from the bustle of Surabaya, but in a more tranquil world
Province :. East Java
How to get :. Take the ferry from the port of Tanjung Perak Surabaya, or Suramadu bridge
Where to stay: Bangkalan: Ningrat Hotel, Jl KH Moh Holil 113.
[Tel: (031) 3095388; 3095507. Sumenep Hotel C1, Jalan Sultan Abdurrahman.. Tel: (0328) 674368.
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