East Java resident, Graeme Steel, takes us shopping for antiques in the second largest city in Indonesia, where to look and reveals its hidden jewels.
Indonesia has long been a source of antiques and reproductions. As it becomes more difficult to find a true Dutch period furniture, skilled craftsmen fill the void by producing copies really quite remarkable. Prices in Surabaya tend to be cheaper than in the capital.
with a number of shops on the city you will find genuine antiques here and some reproductions posing as the real thing. But stores near the center of Surabaya CBD, where expatriates live, are expensive.
For the adventurous hunter good business, you will discover a secret source of antiques and reproductions in Kampung Madura, a densely populated area surrounded by main roads. This, relaxed town downtown friendly can be a fun and rewarding place to buy.
The streets are narrow, but spotlessly clean. Here, spreading several "store their wares on the sidewalks. There is just enough room to park a car.
A shop offers huge wooden sculptures taken from the traditional houses of Kudus on the north coast of Java. These panels are finely carved and show both Eastern and European influence. The store owner said that foreign customers are buying these as partitions or even incorporate them in new homes entries. Further up the street, shop displays smaller goods - chairs and marble tables planter. Scattered on the furniture are numerous colonial ornaments, beautiful Chinese vases, striking wayang masks and antique bakelite telephones. I am reassured by several vendors that purchases can be shipped anywhere in the world.
Struggling to get through the clutter of furniture I make for a store on the opposite side of gang or lane . a smaller size store, I see here a number of tables and offices under renovation. A beautiful roll-top desk in mahogany, with a spot or two ancient writing ink on its surface suggesting its authenticity, is rubbed back to remove a cheap varnish layer that was added to an error of judgment by a owner later. The fine grain is once again see the light of day. Fine wooden sofa with carved back is having his slightly battered edges smoothed with a primitive tool, which is nothing more than a piece of glass, but in the skillful hand of the carpenter brings great shape to its lines.
earlier in the way is the mother of these small suppliers. This shop was the first to open here in the 70s in the early and the larger premises and stock. To call a emporium is not to overdo it. Like other stores, it is also a residence, and I tread a little embarrassed by the rooms, except for antiques can also be home to a sleeping member of the owner's extended family.
on the second floor, an impressive number of smaller pieces are displayed. I discovered a gramophone horn complete with a selection of 78s, a trophy from the colonial era hunts deer, and a collection of Javanese dance masks with their stylized faces among the items. One wall displays 20 or so plates of the 19th century, most of which are of Maastricht in Holland; some have an Indian theme.
Another area worth exploring is along Jalan Jalan Padmo Susatro and Bodri, which leads him. About 10 shops roadside overflowing onto the sidewalk selling a fabulous array of goods - antiques from the Dutch period from phonographs, radios, nautical instruments, silverware, brassware and crystal. Sellers seem willing to negotiate and rarely let you walk away without trying to reach an agreement.
Surabaya provides an excellent opportunity to find interesting, unique items at affordable prices yet.
[1945033FAITS] FAST: Surabaya
province East Java
population 2,765,000 (2010)
Zone: 374.8 km²
Directions: This lots of flights to Surabaya throughout Indonesia and other cities in southeast Asia. Take a taxi from Surabaya to these destinations (about 60 minutes travel time) airport.
Kampung Madura Jaya Jl Gubeng II, off Jl Kertajaya
Jl.Padmo Sustrato. , off Jl. Mayjen Sungkono
Jl. Bodri alongside Gelora Pancasila
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