Grace always knew that respect for the dead is at the heart of the Toraja culture. But on his second visit to Tana Toraja during the holiday season, she learned some surprising perspectives on what it really means.
Skeletons in rock caverns adorned with tau-tau ancestral figurines; tongkonan traditional houses and the corresponding rice barns, decorated with horns of bulls slaughtered in the funeral feasts; baby graves in tree trunks. It seems that the Toraja people live in constant reminder of life how finished on earth is, and spend this life preparing for the next
Visit with family and friends during the Christmas season, we started our days on the buffalo market Pasar Bolu, which trades every six days. The slaughter of buffalo is an essential part of the Toraja funeral ceremony, as they are supposed to be traditionally the vehicle accompanying the deceased in eternity. ordinary black buffalo cost 20 to 70 million rupees. The most expensive race is tedong saleko , black and white mottled with yellow buffalo horns, blue eyes and white legs, prices range between $ 0 million to over one billion rupiah.
a wealthy family with a high social status can shoot up to 28 buffalo in a ceremony. That said, the success with the Toraja community has also made the competitive ceremonies - it is not uncommon to find those who sacrifice more than 100 buffaloes. This does not include pigs, which can cost between 3-7000000 rupees each. In addition to this, the family must pay for the complex tongkonan shaped coffins, building ceremonial grounds, and food for those who help with or attend the funeral.
"Why go through all these problems and financial stress for a dead person?" One might ask. According to local guide Nathan Salenna, "It is the expression of our service the absolute best to pay the last respects to our parents who gave us life. As they settle in the hereafter, can receive these offers and get there happy. "
Christmas happens to be the time of year when most Toraja diaspora return to the homeland to perform rituals. It is common for a funeral to celebrate someone who has died or even months ago . has years in Tana Toraja, a burial ceremony is more than just a demonstration of wealth and prestige. - It's time to gather with family and friends not seen very often throughout the year
"Islam did not penetrate Toraja successful because it does not allow us to continue our ancestral rituals and animal sacrifices, including pigs. That said, on tolerance to our Muslim brothers and sisters in Toraja, we usually set aside a buffalo in a ceremony halal slaughter, "Nathan said.
I attended a burial ceremony in Sangalla, and ceremonial grounds, a woman leader of ceremony was praying a Christian prayer in the language Toraja. The ceremonial house was richly decorated in red and gold - somehow, it felt a bit like the Chinese New Year, except that instead of knots and lanterns, he parang (daggers Toraja) and buffalo horns. barefoot men dressed in black for the most part, young and old, took their place to carry the coffin. It was covered in red fabric and gold costume, decoratively sheltered under a red buffalo horn roof characteristic of traditional Toraja houses.
A parade of chief led the singing, the mourners sing along to the canon. The parade stopped often for pallbearers to do a little dance. At first I thought they were to rest wearing such a heavy coffin, but it was always the most difficult places, with icky mud squished between their toes. As we arrived near the rice fields by the side of the main road, it became clear that my assumption was wrong.
"Oh, they'll have too!" Some old women began to laugh at me. The fact that I was wearing a pink shirt quick drying sports did not help, I ran out of black and ended up wearing a dead giveaway that I was not local. "Mind your camera! Here they come again!"
I spent the remaining hours wet, cold, smelling like manure, and laughed with my family and friends. But if there is something I learned from a Toraja funeral is to spend. As Nathan said, "After the mourning comes joy. As we believe that the party arrived happy in their eternal home, we honor them with a celebration of love and laughter. If you've splashed, this is not for you to get upset with. They are just clean it from their minds mourning to make way for a new and happy start to continue with this life. He showers of blessing "
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In short
Country :. Indonesia
Province: Sulawesi Selatan (South Sulawesi)
House: The Toraja regency - 3,205,77 km 2
Sulawesi Selatan - 46,717.48 km 2
highest altitude: Sesean - 2,100 AMSL meters
The largest city: Rantepao - now capital of Toraja Utara regency, tourist center
Makale - Tana Toraja regency capital of
population 437843 - 2010 estimate, including two regencies
Directions: flights from most major cities daily Makassar
Aviastar flights twice weekly from Makassar to Makale
or Makassar eight hours drive from Rantepao
What to bring: Hat, sunglasses, sun cream
Camera - rainproof cover or dry -bag option
black suit and change of clothes
the money for ritual offering (couple hundred thousand rupees)
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